Texas is big. Really big. I've been passing through it staring at scrubby desert for the last twenty four hours or so. I'm content.
I boarded this train in Chicago Friday at 1:30pm. I'll get off in Los Angeles at 8:45am on Sunday; it's currently Saturday 3:16pm. We head south to San Antonio and then west to the state that I call home. It's a 68 hour journey over 2728 miles and costs only about $50 less than a four hour airplane ticket.
I often have to explain why I like doing this. I've decided to write it down once in an effort to not repeat myself.
Planes are magical. You get in them, there is some waiting, silly instructions, and then a roar, an unbelievable view (we're flying!) and then you're in the milky whiteness of clouds. Repeat in reverse and *poof* you're traveled across the continent.
Across the continent! This really is unbelievable. My mind, in particular, can not grasp that I've actually traveled across so much land in such a brief period. The concept of travling is reduced to origins and destinations. The movement is made abstract.
Trains are the most comfortable way to force your mind to understand the distance. Driving, biking, walking also obviously connect you to the movement - they just require more dedication. Trains are easy.
While I've written the last few paragraphs I've traveled over miles of Texas countryside. I'm passing a farm just now with a white stucco house with arches. There is a pickup truck in two pieces in the yard. I feel the vibration of the train devouring rail and I feel the heat of the sun. I have seen, felt, or dreamed through every mile between Chicago and home. Each has made some slight impression.
"Ok", people say, "that sounds nice, but you're in the same place for 68 hours. Four hours in a plane is miserable. I'm sure you have bigger seats or something but 68 hours! Where do you sleep?"
This is a valid point. 68 hours is a long time. Most passengers in the coach section of long distance Amtrak trains are first time train travellers. If you think a bit this means that they don't come back. It's a bad experience for most; it was bad my first time. Luckily there are tricks. If you read, I will tell them to you.
Don't stay in your seat.
There is plenty of space in your seat and it's a beautiful view. Trains are like traveling in your living room in that you can get up, walk around, chat if that's your thing, etc.... There's better to be had though. The observation car is actually way nicer than your living room (mine anyway). I spend almost all of my time there, away from my seat.
Bring food. Good food. Wine or beer if you like.
You're in a beautiful environment with lots of leisure time. This is the perfect environment for enjoying good food. On this trip I brought dense bread, nuts, dried apricots, mangoes, dates, celery, a head of kale, two good dry sausages and enough sardines and canned salmon to repopulate the ocean.
Bring a sleeping pad and blanket.
My best secret. As a taller fellow I find sleeping in the lay-down chairs to be uncomfortable. I bring a sleeping pad and blanket and camp out in the observation car. Everyone clears out by 10:00 and there is lots of horizontal space to sleep quite comfortably.
Time
Amtrak trains are notorious for delays. If you realize that being five hours late on a sixty hour ride really doesn't matter then this sort of thing isn't bothersome.
Work
For me at least the train is an optimal work environment. It's comfortable, limits the distraction of the internet, and I swear I have more space here than in my cubicle. Having something to do gives some structure to the long hours if needed.
So, who travels long distance on Amtrak through the country? This is an odd bunch.
Zainy travellers.
Only about one in forty is like me (zainy traveller with some free time and a good mood).
Middle America.
To some folks the $50 difference means something. Coach is filled with budget travellers. Coming from my suburban fancy-pants upbringing I'll admit that there is some culture shock for me here. It's a good experience though
The Curious.
They're on business, getting to the next town over, etc... and wanted to try it out. Hopefully, this is about to be you.
Retirees.
They mostly populate the sleeper cars. Having these folks around is great. They provide some sanity and reason to the mix.
The Amish.
Planes are verboten. I have yet to be on a distance Amtrak train without running into this luddite breed. They're usually pretty talkative.
People are gregarious and there's lots to talk about. If you're not the talkative type there's lots of good eavesdropping. If you're not into people at all there's fantastic reading and staring out of windows to be done.
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